Tātou Araroa – Episode 17 – The end of the World and further South.
Progress: 2,249.2km – 75.02%
Colac Bay to Bluff and Stewart Island.
Sunset on the North Arm of the Paterson Inlet- Stewart Island
Our food cravings sated at the Colac Bay Holiday Park, we headed for an early night. Excited in the knowledge that the next few days ahead meant less arduous walking and more food options. We had also committed to a rest day in Riverton, which would be our first day off in eight and was very much needed.
We only had 13km into Riverton to complete before our long awaited rest. We set off towards the beach, which we would follow for the vast majority of the day, and were blasted immediately by the strong chilly wind coming off the South Pacific. Fortunately it was a tail wind and drove us all morning towards our goal. A relatively simple 4 hours of part road, part beach, part clifftop stroll were highlighted by tremendous views back towards Colac Bay and our vanquished foe, the Longwood Forest.
Looking back towards Colac Bay
Another real treat was entering a paddock of young cows. Having been recently separated from their mothers, they were overwhelmingly curious. At one point one stepped on Sarah’s shoe as we skirted our way around the main bulk of the herd.
We headed away from the coast and up towards a viewing platform through the coastal forest. From this viewpoint we could see our next week; the vast wineglass shaped bay towards Invercargill in the foreground, the gently sloped bluff that gives the town of Bluff its name, behind. We could also see a gentle grey outline of Stewart Island across the water, it’s jagged ridges shrouded in cloud only added to the excitement of us finally exploring Aotearoa New Zealand’s 3rd largest island.
Cows!
From the viewpoint we dropped down into the town of Riverton itself. Stopping at the wonderful Riverton Holiday Park we asked for the availability of a cabin for two nights, alas they had one cabin free that night, but only a tent site the next day. We were weirdly delighted by this, the owners seemed like lovely people and it was great to see their place so busy. The continuing closure of our borders due to the ongoing pandemic is causing havoc among the tourism industry so it is great to see New Zealanders exploring their own backyard.
Looking down on Te Waewae Bay looking towards Invercargil from Riverton
We dropped off our bags and walked the 1.5km into town for lunch and to pick up supplies. Whilst we’d loved the gigantic carbfest in Colac Bay the previous day, we were also on the hunt for something fresh and, perhaps, more refined. The two places we had been recommended were both closed so we settled for a very average looking cafe opposite the town’s pub. Bill had expressed a craving for Eggs Benedict with Salmon and, belaying the cafe’s rather ancient facade, it was on the menu. We quickly ordered Bill’s Bene and Sarah’s Corn Fritter Stack and waited impatiently. When they arrived they were unbelievably good. It is rare to anticipate something so much and have the expectation exceeded so massively. We quickly polished off our food, Bill ordered a Pork Belly Pie to go and we headed back to camp via the supermarket.
A hugely relaxing day in the friendly confines of the Riverton Holiday Park followed. This day had been forecast to be sunny from 10 days previous and we had named it “Hot Tuesday", it turned out to be exactly that and we lapped up the sun greedily.
Beautiful Oreti Beach
Feeling fresh and ready, we set off the following day aiming for Invercargill. Predominantly on beach, we set off as close to low tide as we could to maximize the firmer sand this affords. An estuary crossing too, around 4 hours into our day, was also in our minds. We made great time along the beach, reminiscing fondly of our previous beach exploits some 2000km back down the trail.
We crossed the fast flowing but knee deep estuary and began to see figures and vehicles on the beach up ahead. We knew this must be Oreti Beach which was where we would leave the sand and head inland towards Invercargill. Forgetting our lessons from some 3 months ago, we were again shocked at how very slowly reference points on sand seem to move. Eventually we did make our exit and turned inland towards the Beach Road Campground, our destination for that evening.
Looking back towards Riverton on Oreti Beach
The Beach Road Campground comes well recommended and reviewed from many Te Araroa walkers, the owner “gets” walkers and his warm and friendly welcome was certainly well received by us both.
The next day would be our final day as SOBOs (Southbound Te Araroa Walkers) as we would reach the trail’s Southern Terminus at Stirling Point in Bluff. Unfortunately, Sarah awoke feeling awful and, due to our Stewart Island ferry booking from Bluff booked the next day, we had no choice but to hitch. The trail between Invercargill and Bluff includes an 18km section of road walking on the side of State Highway 1 so we were not devastated by our forced motorised assistance. There is work currently underway to improve this final section which is much needed, as a vast majority of people complete their journeys in Bluff and a final day spent dodging trucks and cars is not a fitting coda for such a huge undertaking.
Windy!
We managed to secure a room at the Bluff Lodge and spent the afternoon resting and recuperating. Once Sarah felt strong enough we walked the final 3km to Stirling Point. Despite the slight setback of the day’s illness induced support we felt very accomplished to have completed a tough section of Te Araroa. Stirling Point possesses an energy that only comes from a place that experiences such excitement (from those who begin their journey there heading North) and such fulfilment (from those who end their journey beside the South Pacific in this hallowed spot).
The Holy Grail for Southbounders — Stirling Point.
We headed back to our hotel and rested up, excited about our next challenge – Rakiura/ Stewart Island. Our original plan was to walk 10 or so days across the muddy wilderness of Stewart Islands northern and southern extremities, weather however dictated we were going to have to settle for the 3 day Great Walk – The Rakiura Track.
Calm seas on the way out to Stewart Island
We awoke early the next morning to glorious blue skies and calm winds. The calm winds a particular boon as the Foveaux Strait, the channel between Bluff and Stewart Island, is notoriously choppy and vomit inducing. The captain cheerfully announced “I’ve never seen it so flat" as we sailed away from the wharf into the harbour. A serene hour later spent watching the shearwaters diving in and out of the calm sea and we arrived at Oban, the largest settlement on the island.
Stunning Lees Bay — the Rakiura Track trailhead.
From Oban we pressed on along a quiet and picturesque coastal road via Horseshoe Bay to the start of the track at Lees Bay. The brilliant turquoise water and golden sand sparking memories of glorious Northland beaches and looked hugely out of place on the last island before Antarctica. Once we entered the trail we revelled in it’s well manicured and even terrain whilst marvelling equally at the stunning hues from the bay below. We alternated between bush and beach for three hours and then dropped finally into Port William and our campsite for the evening. We have stayed at many attractive places on this adventure but this camp and its sweeping views of a tropical Island looking paradise are right up there with the best of them.
Sarah on the wharf at Port William
Our camping spot for the night
The sun continued to shine long into the evening as we lazed on the soft grass by the foreshore. The long summer evening acted only to multiply the natural beauty and tranquillity that surrounded us.
Stewart Island is a Dark Sky Reserve, meaning that light pollution is strictly controlled and, as a result, the Southern sky was out in full force. It was perhaps the first time on the trail we were happy to be awoken during the night with the inevitable mid-night pang to use the toilet. We were treated to a cloudless night and the Milky Way on full display.
The following day took us on an undulating forest track. We had been warned about its muddiness from those passing the other way but, us hardy mud bound Te Araroa folk, met the mud as a friend and made short and sharpish work of the occasionally boggy trail. Arriving at North Arm Campsite we were initially saddened that it was enclosed in trees. A short walk to the Hut however led us to a beach within the inlet and we again spent the afternoon in the warm embrace of the New Zealand summer.
Beautiful sunset on the Paterson Inlet
We returned to the campground, made dinner, shared camp stories with a German couple and headed for bed. As we readied ourselves for bed we heard the unmistakable call of a Kiwi. Stewart Island is known for Kiwi spotting, so Bill jumped out of bed, donned the head torch and went searching. Tip toeing around the fringes of the campsite, Bill turned around the see a face of a girl illuminated in red and gesturing wildly for him to “come here!!” Bill heeded this command and gradually and gently moved towards the mysterious figure. She extended a finger towards the ground and bought the same finger to her lips. “A kiwi is here – be quiet!” was clearly the message. Glacially slow, Bill moved closer and finally saw our national icon in all its glory. With a body roughly the size of a melon, a long fragile beak and proportionally flimsy legs, the Kiwi is an odd creature. Bill followed the majestic bird for a good while before beckoning one of the Germans over and giving her a chance to spend some precious time with our new found friend.
The following day was a Sunday, yes the walk was good and yes we enjoyed the extensive views of the Paterson Inlet and the red blossom of the Southern Rata trees, but today was about one thing: The Quiz. Billed as “The World’s Most Southerly Pub Quiz", the South Seas Hotel’s Sunday night tradition was something we needed to win.
The South Sea Hotel. Scene of “The Quiz"
An honourable mention for this day must go to the tremendous date scone Sarah ate upon our return to Oban. Another great example of something highly anticipated delivering above all hopes.
We had heard an old work colleague of Bill’s was also on the Island, so Bill contacted Laura and, as she was with 3 friends and the maximum team size for the quiz was 6, invited them to join us for the evening’s festivities.
Come 6.30 and we were set. Dinner eaten, brains engaged. The Picture Round is distributed – “Name the Sporting Trophy” – right in Bill’s wheelhouse. A promising start. We chugged away through rounds of Science and Nature, Geography and a Spelling Round, we felt confident but it was busy and we were sure another team would do better.
Time for the scores, starting with the lowest – it wasn’t us. Phew. Then team after team was announced and we gradually became more and more contented “it’ll be us next" was muttered many times. Alas our name was not mentioned, and when the quizmaster added “and in third place....” it wasn’t us either....
“Only half a point between first and second place”, cue accusatory glances between our team members silently screaming “if it’s because you said X instead of Y for question Z I’ll be fuming.....” After an American Idol-esque dramatic pause the quiz master announced “and the winners are...”... IT WAS US! We had come, we had quizzed and we had conquered. Cue pandemonium amongst the team and awful side eyed anger from the locals, we collected our reward of two nice bottles of New Zealand red wine (and 4 packets of crisps) and swiftly left the scene of our victory. Back at Laura and co’s backpackers we quickly polished off the wine whilst basking in a smug and contented glow.
Winners are grinners. Laura, Bill and the spoils of war
It turns out that perhaps an afternoon spent in the pub finished off by two bottles of wine was perhaps not the smartest, given our plans for the following day. We woke up to the sound of wind and rain, immediately our minds drawn to one thing: The Foveaux Strait. We were returning to the mainland that day and golly it looked choppy. Our original plan was to stay an extra day but the huge low pressure system making it’s way from the South Pacific meant it was prudent to get off the island before the anticipated 130km gusts hit the following morning.
We boarded the ferry, with Bill feeling a little dusty after the previous nights frivolities. The boat journey started well, but once we’d left the protection of Half Moon Bay we were at the mercy of Tangaroa himself. The sturdy catamaran rode the waves forcefully and quickly, however the user experience was very much one of huge drops, rolls, dips, rises and all manner of stomach clearing manoeuvres. We sat in our seats and held on for dear life, the coloured of our knuckles as white as the cresting tops of the huge waves. Other passengers fell like dominoes, sick bags were distributed and, as if the ferry company have experience with this, the crewmembers specifically charged with managing ill passengers were worked off their feet.
Dramatised picture of the return ferry to Bluff
For a seemingly eternal time we rode the heavy swell, the only comfort coming from the sight of Bluff gradually coming closer and welcoming us back to a calm haven. Finally we rounded Stirling Point and the sea flattened. Our stomachs physically unclenched as we gently moored back into the Harbour.
We had wanted to go to Stewart Island for many years and it did not disappoint. It’s tropical looking beaches, diverse and ancient bush and its unique wildlife made Rakiura a highlight of our experience so far.
We headed back to Queenstown to begin our journey Northbound with renewed vigour and excitement. Sadly, the weather and Bill’s shoulder did not agree and so we find ourselves now with a new plan for the next week: exploring the Catlins and her rugged beauty.
More Stewart Island beauty
What’s next?
Our loyal steed for the week of exploring!
Currently we are exploring the Catlins and will send perhaps an album of pictures through when we get the chance. Then it’s back to Queenstown and getting back on the trail on the Motutapu Track to Wanaka then the Lakes of Hawea, Ohau and beyond!