Tātou Araroa – Chapter 22– Tūtira mai ngā iwi, tātau, tātau e (Come together, as one)
Progress: 3009.1km – 100.01%
The Pelorus River and Queen Charlotte Tracks.
The wharf at Camp Bay
So here we go, final stages. Seven days left of Tātou Araroa, a week of our great odyssey remains.
We woke up in an overcast and drizzly Nelson, hurriedly ate our breakfast of scrambled eggs and avocado on toast and headed out the door. As is the running theme, each section seems to have a “Big Day” so we thought we might as well get this done sooner rather than later. A route was set – Nelson to Coppermine Saddle to Dun Saddle to Rocks Hut to Middy Hut to, finally, Captain Creek Hut. A whopper of a day, but we felt fresh and raring to go.
The day begins with us heading upwards on a spur of a hill overlooking the Nelson suburb of The Brook. We found ourselves in deep mist and agonizingly muggy conditions. Following heavy rain the previous day, the humidity was through the roof and was immediately draining. The spur through Eureka Park met the Waimarama Wildlife Sanctuary and we headed up parallel to its huge and hi-tech fence. The climb was steep, we gained around 600m of height in a little over 2km and the sweat was pouring from our brows, backs and bones. The climb took us into the clouds and limited visibility to less than 50m, it was initially frustrating but then we remembered when we live in Nelson we will definitely explore here again.
Eventually the steep 4x4 track levelled out and we turned away from the predator proof fence towards Third House Shelter. After a break at the shelter we followed a mountain bike track gently upwards once more towards Coppermine Saddle. The track sidled along Wooded Peak and (probably, cloud meant it was a whiteout for us!) offers really good views of the surrounding hills. We could see a group of mountain bikers at the saddle and made good time in joining them. From Coppermine Saddle we were directed further up towards Dun Saddle on a tussock, rock and root strewn track. The sign suggested it might take us 30 minutes to cover the 800m but, fortunately, we knocked it off in twelve.
Bill atop Dun Saddle
Once we crested the top of the saddle we entered the Richmond Forest Park and could see the huge forest and valley below. An exciting but intimidating sight. From the saddle we dropped down from the open tussock into a beech forest and the trail became a smorgasbord of danger; don’t step on the roots because they are as slippery as ice, ditto for the rocks, ditto for moss covered forest floor. We slipped and slid our way down into the valley towards Rocks Hut. As Rocks Hut is run by the Nelson Tramping Club, it was at least well looked after and especially muddy sections were bridged by chopped wood stepping stones. We made for the well maintained hut very eager for lunch. We had made good time to get here in 5 hours from the road end and it was time for some nourishment.
In a rather shocking change to our modus operandi, these final sections has been declared a Tuna Free Zone. Lunch then was a glorious assault on the palate; half a wrap with cheese and salami, the other half with peanut butter. Then using the remainder of the day’s cheese and salami ration to add to cheese crackers, finished off with a couple of bliss balls. An absolute treat. Making Lunch Great Again.
One of many suspension bridges over the Pelorus River
After lunch we continued on down the valley, evading the multitude of greasy hazards and sweating, lots and lots of sweating. It was also the time for a sad moment, one of our walking poles, our loyal and trusted appendages, broke. To have one break so close to the end is heart-breaking. We have both relied massively on the balance, power, stability and fall arrest services that they have provided us. A rough estimate suggests we probably have impacted the ground with our poles over one million (1,000,000) times each during the last 5 months. That they have lasted so long is a testament to their quality. For now, they must suffer the indignity of a duck tape temporary fix that seems to just about do the job.
Pole fixed, we continued downwards. The sign at Rocks Hut had suggested 3 hours to cover the 5km to Middy Hut but we made swift ground mainly a carpet of rich red beech foliage. Sure enough, 90 minutes after we left Rocks Hut we spot Middy Hut through the trees, scare off a few wild goats, and there we were. A quick look around the hut and a quick signing of the intentions book and we were off again. Can we take the opportunity for a public service announcement: NZ folk – always sign the intentions book! Others – each hut is furnished with a book that everyone who passes through should sign, it details when you arrived, when you left, who you were with and the intentions for your trip. Completing the intentions book has saved countless lives because it provides Search And Rescue with a great boost of being able to track your movements should you become lost.
With the sun now reaching its hottest, we had a steep climb away from Middy and we were absolutely dripping. We were getting pretty tired so we decided on headphones in for the remaining 4.8km to Captain Creek. Sarah continues to let Mr Obama’s dulcet tones sooth her battered body and mind whilst Bill has now moved on to the highly informative “We have ways of making you talk" podcast and its focus on educating the listener about WW2 in a light hearted and mildly comic way.
Headphones in, afterburners on. The track undulated moderately but was clear and well walked. We had a few bridges to waypoint us home and reached the first one in great time. We spotted the second 30 minutes later a bit further down the river. It was much lower than our current position so we had to drop steeply to cross. The rooty and thus slippery drop to the bridge was tough and saw Bill twist his ankle quite badly just prior to the bridge. Fortunately his mind was taken off his ankle by the rather flamboyant swaying of the one person bridge as we crossed.
Captain Creek Hut, our last of Te Araroa
We arrived soon after at Captain Creek Hut. A bittersweet moment, absolute joy that we made it, paired with a sliver of sadness that this will be our last hut. We have been utterly enthralled by the incredible network of huts and shelters that dot Te Araroa, from cavernous and modern mansions such as Upper Sabine and Anne Huts to tiny gems like A-Frame and this wee beauty at Captain Creek. There are a few dogs too, Bog Inn on the Timber Trail, Martin’s Hut in the Longwoods and (the winner of worst/most terrifying hut) West Harper Hut and its interior designed by Satan and Sons Design.
A quick plunge in Pelorus River followed quickly, steam rising from the water as our poached bodies enter. A quick dinner of chickpea curry was followed by a glorious glorious 10 ½ hour sleep.
The alarm chimed in the morning and we awoke fresh and ready to go. Our only nagging issue is Bill’s ankle which was still quite tender. He wrapped it with tape, tied his shoelaces extra tight and we hit the trail. Pelorus Bridge was our destination, 8km in bush then 14km on road between us and our goal. It started off quite awkwardly, the trail undulated along the true left of the Pelorus, the pattern of slippery roots and uneven footing continued from yesterday. One section involved us having to hug a beech tree as we navigated a particularly complex enigma of roots. We’ve hugged many a tree on this journey, but this was different. It was different because the tree was covered in Honeydew, a black sooty looking mould that grows on the beech trees in the north of the South Island. It is created by Scale Insects who infest the tree, suck the sap from inside and secrete the sticky substance that eventually forms the honeydew. We have no problems with things secreted from insects, but we do have a problem with the hundreds of wasps that adore this and cover these trees. We took it easy, paid close attention to our handholds and made it through unstung.
After an hour the track became much friendlier and we completed the trail to the road end quickly. Fortunately too, a muggy morning had given way to clearer skies and a little wind. The road section was through farmland and offered intermittent shade but we progressed well as the mercury began to rise, cursing at times our discipline in turning down an offered hitch at the road end. Fortunately we had motivation of the best kind, ice creammotivation. The cafe at Pelorus Bridge has a good selection of drinks, cakes and pies and we were keen to taste their offerings ASAP. In went the headphones – Sarah opting for Off Menu – a hilarious Jo Brand episode where she orders essentially an all you can eat mezze platter as a starter. Bill continuing with his war podcast, this one focusing on the almost unknown story of Madagascar’s important role in the war.
Heading down the Pelorus Valley
We carried on through the heat until eventually we could hear cars on State Highway 6, the road that meets ours at Pelorus Bridge, pressing on 10 minutes more and we were done. We crossed the eponymous bridge and hit the cafe. Chocolate and Hazelnut Kapiti Magnum-esque ice cream for Sarah and a Colossal Toffee Cornetto for Bill (plus a can of full fat coke, drunk almost before we sat down).
We headed to the campground and erected the tent in a lovely sheltered spot. We then headed to the river for a refreshing and well earned swim. Unlike most of our other “swims" this one actually meant a full submersion and resting our aching bodies in the mild water. Feeling refreshed but cold, we drove home the feeling of cleanliness with a hot shower. Another banquet of curry, potatoes and spinach, plus peas and rice, was polished off and we headed to bed with the calming sound of the river flowing in our ears.
The rich emerald waters of the Pelorus River
Havelock was the target the following day. We made a sluggish start, crossed Pelorus Bridge once more and re-joined the trail. The first few kilometers were gentle and picturesque as we walked above the deep green Pelorus and Rai Rivers. After an hour or so the trail sent us off into farmland and over a succession of stiles and paddocks of various quality underfoot. The low cloud hung to the surrounding hills and gave the valley a mysterious and ethereal quality as we motored forward at good pace. We continued through yet more paddocks, often with the less than pleasant smell of turnips in our nostrils. Not a vegetable one associates with Aotearoa New Zealand, but the place was teeming with then. Eventually we reached a bridge back over the Pelorus which we crossed and walked the final 3km along State Highway 6 into Havelock. Just as we entered the town we had a quick lunch by the calm waters of Te Hoiere / Pelorus Sound.
Bill at our lunch spot by the Pelorus Sound at Havelock
Lunch over, we head into town and to the Holiday Park. We set the tent up in a sheltered spot by a tree and headed back out the main street for the following treats respectively: Real Fruit Ice Cream (Sarah – Blueberry, Bill -Strawberry), Beer (Wellington based brewery Fortune Favours’ “The Naturalist" Unfiltered Pale Ale), Chips ( good portion, lacked seasoning but excellent aioli) and another beer.
Feeling pretty satisfied, we headed to the shop to pick up final provisions for the last 5 days of walking. Our research had uncovered a very exciting thing; we could get dinner at a pub, restaurant or lodge EVERY night until the end. Armed with this gleeful information, we bought a box of granola, milk power, wraps, a stick of salami, a block of cheese and some snacks. The best outcome of this situation is lighter bags for the remainder.
They take the Green Lipped Mussel Capital moniker seriously in Havelock
A tasty dinner consisting of Green Lipped Mussels (Havelock is the, self-proclaimed Green Lipped Mussel Capital of the World), white wine, garlic, cream and a crusty baguette followed. Sarah is not to keen on mussels so add the sauce to a filled pasta and enjoyed all the same.
Next up was the day to Anakiwa and the start of the Queen Charlotte Track. Just an 18km day with a good chunk of road walking thrown in. We knew above all else that we would make good time which we were stoked about. Stoked because we had just booked a, very un-Sarah and Bill like, fancy accommodation at Anakiwa for a couple of nights to see out the forecasted rain due the next day. We were looking forward to spending time in the spa pool especially. With this in our minds we set off from Havelock, crossed the Kaituna River via a causeway and joined the Link Track. The Link Track is a newly completed track that runs all the way from Nelson to Picton with many offshoots. It is well made, suitable for cyclists and see us using it heaps when we make our move down. The section of Link Track we are on runs parallel to, and above, Queen Charlotte Drive and offers spectacular views down Pelorus Sound and its many coves, inlets and islets.
Looking down Pelorus Sound from Moenui Bay
Predictably, photo stops aside, we make tremendous progress and cover the 8km rapidly. The undulating nature of the track only adding to its beauty as it varies between almost water level and many hundreds of meters up on a gentle ridge.
The town of Linkwater comes into view as we reach the coastal road. We soon pass the town, and the English country pub looking Queen Charlotte Tavern quickly and turn off the highway towards Anakiwa on another section of the superb Link Track. The 3km final stroll into Anakiwa passed quickly and we set about locating the Lodge. We find it, set back 50m from the edge of the Grove Arm of Queen Charlotte Sound. A quick tour from the hotel manager and we settle into our room for the next two nights. After nipping out for a quick ice cream by the water, we hop into the spa and our bodies thank us for probably the only nice thing we’ve done for them in 5 months. We usually hate spas and hot pools but the strong jets on aching shoulders, calves and quads were an elixir to our weary bodies.
An afternoon of TV watching followed. A rest day the next day of much the same was delightful. Watching Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince in the Movie Lounge was a real treat, even with the cringy dialogue and scenes.
Immediate rewards on the Queen Charlotte Track just out from Anakiwa
Rest day behind us, and 7am alarm immediately snoozed till 7.30, we packed our bags with our freshly washed clothes and headed out to start the Queen Charlotte Track and the final leg of our odyssey. The trail is looked after by the Queen Charlotte Trail Land Cooperative, in conjunction with the Department of Conservation, and boy do they so a stellar job. Incredibly smooth track conditions, picnic benches scattered strategically at all decent viewpoints, heaps of signage and water taps dotted sporadically throughout the trail are all signs of hard work and pride taken in a glorious part of country. The track itself offers the walker incredible views on either side, Queen Charlotte Sound to the right and Kenepuru Sound to the left. The only downside to the days walking was the weather, drizzle and low cloud limited our range of vision but added an intensity to the water and surrounding hills. Our walking day was short and rewarding, we climbed up and dropped into two saddles whilst alternating either side of a gentle ridge. The track is designed with views in mind and it delivers in droves. An interesting moment happening just as we dropped into the first saddle of the day, Te Mahia Saddle, when Bill is greeted out of the blue by an outstretched hand and a warm welcome. It was Pablo, someone who he plays football with on a Monday night, him and his partner are exploring the South Island and happen to be in this little piece of paradise at exactly the same time as us.
Expansive view down the Kenepuru Sound
The day continued on in its undulating way, lunch was consumed at panoramic lookout in mild drizzle, then we dropped down a second time into the settlement of Portage and to its campground, Cowshed Bay. Tent erected, cup of tea demolished, we waited for our 6.30 dinner reservation at the Portage Lodge. Fortunately for them we are showered and have fresh(ish) clothes, so hoped to not put any diners off their meals. The meal was an unfortunate disappointment, slim pickings on the menu so we both opted for the Veggie Lasagne and shared some chips. The lasagne was everything a lasagne shouldn’t be, there were zero tomatoes or tomato taste, zero texture, it was hot but not piping hot and was not a generous serve. It wasn’t quite “wish I was having tuna" bad, but at $24 (£12) it was pretty close. We softened the blow of an disappointing dinner with one third of a bar if Whittaker’s Fruit and Nut, had a cup of tea and headed for bed.
Our penultimate full day on trail was Cowshed Bay to Camp Bay, 24km and roughly 1400 meters of ascent. The day started with a rousing 400 meter climb up from the bay to the top of the ridgeline that would make up the majority of our walking that day. The trail continued to be excellently well maintained and clearly marked, it was pleasing too to have a day divided into a number of enjoyable features, primarily picnic benches with wide ranging views. We smashed the first 10km in quick order and had a snack (half of a One Square Meal bar) whilst afforded to tremendous view down the spine of the Kenepuru Sound.
The prevailing mind-set for the day, and perhaps the entire section, was how close we were to finishing. Conversations turned very much to highlights, learnings and a debrief of the trip in its entirety. We were very keen to enjoy what we have left, but after such an undertaking, it is hard to not reflect and review.
Bay of Many Coves
We lunched looking over the Bay of Many Coves, the bench in the shade smelt like death (sadly through this trail we have developed a strong nose for when something has died nearby) so we sat in the sun and baked. Due to our impending visit to the Furneaux Lodge tomorrow, this would be our final trail lunch. What a tremendous spot for it too! The town of Picton dominated the background, inter island ferries made there way up through the sounds toward the choppy Cook Straight that separates Aotearoa New Zealand’s two major islands. The foreground was the rich blue water of the aptly named Bay of Many Coves. Its deep inlets home to some idyllic holiday homes, wharfs and sheer tranquil beauty.
We set off after lunch with around 9km to go. The morning cloud had very much become afternoon sun and a joint decision to podcast was made. The beauty of the Queen Charlotte Track is multifaceted, beauty in the views, beauty in the flora and, most importantly for us, on Day 152, the beauty of rapid rapid progress. We covered the 9km in under two hours and dropped down from the Kenepuru Saddle into Camp Bay. We set up the tent and headed for a swim. We did not make it for a swim. We made it as far as the bar. What began with the intention of a quick can of coke before a swim ended up being 3 hours of beers, pizza and chips. In contrast to yesterday’s disappointment, Punga Cove Resort was paradise, nirvana, Shangri-La, it was a bar and restaurant sat on the waters edge in the Endevour Inlet. The fern laden bush surrounding us dropped dramatically and seamlessly into the calm clear sapphire water that lapped gently against the dock attached to the bar.
Translucent water at Punga Cove
Feeling satisfied, accomplished, happy and, perhaps a little squiffy, we retired to the tent for the second to last night on trail and drifted into a contented and peaceful sleep. As an added bonus we decided to sleep with the outer off the tent and took in the calm, starry night through the transparent inner layer of our shelter.
A cloudless sky greeted us for our last full day of walking, to Schoolhouse Bay Campground some 22km away. We would spend most of the day skirting the Endevour Inlet with a potential highlight being burger and chips at the Furneaux Lodge. As expected, the track continued to be in tremendous condition and we carried on the trend of progressing well. We lapped up the melange of blues and greens shimmering off the calm waters of the inlet as you peered down through the trees. A truly fitting and resplendent end to our journey, we were in great spirits.
We had just finished resting and snacking on some scroggin and a cereal bar when we passed two walkers coming the other way “Have you heard the news?” she asked. We replied in the negative, assuming “the news" was Covid related, as a decision about changing alert levels was due today. She informed us however about a number of strong earthquakes that had just happened off of Hawkes' Bay on the East Coast of the North Island. She informed us too that we were on a tsunami watch. We didn’t think too much of it, we were in an inlet in a cove tucked in a sound, also we were miles away. We thanked her for the update and pressed on. Shortly after we reached the head of the inlet and began to walk along the opposite side we had been walking this morning. We saw a delightful sign “Furneaux Lodge- 60m", we hopped our way excitedly down the path until we hear “Wipe those smiles off your faces", it was three ladies who were cycling the track and informed us of the sad news. The lodge was closed and the staff and guests evacuated to higher ground as per their Tsunami warning protocols. The manager of the Lodge came out and told us to head for higher ground at a viewpoint 100m down the track. We of course followed his advice and headed up.
Lodge guests, cyclists, walkers and day trippers alike all took their place seated beside a huge Rimu tree, as we waited further instructions from the staff. All eyes, well all four of ours at least, were trained on the 4 polystyrene boxes on the floor in the middle of the congregation. We were eager to see what we will be substituting in for our missed burger and chips today. Time passed amid occasional chatter from one of the staff’s radios, “another 6.4 off the Kermedec Islands", “Storm surges making the shore in the Far North" were the disturbing tidbits we could make out. After 30 minutes or so it was drinks, ice cold Coke Zero to be precise. Keep it up Furneaux Lodge, we thought, a strong start.
Given we had such little information about the nature of the string of quakes, we were concerned about the potential human cost of whatever was occurring off our northeast coast. 8.1 is a strong jolt, stronger than the tragic Christchurch quakes a decade ago which was a distressing thought. Radio chatter continued but the language used became gradually less severe and we sensed this was a bullet dodged. It was then the treasure chests were opened and lunch was unveiled: an array of cold ham, beef and chicken, a gigantic block of camembert, smoked cheddar, strawberries, apples and some loaves of bread. We feasted greedily on the generous offerings and felt suitably contented about missing out on burgers and chips. The gigantic slices of deliciously moist carrot cake softened the blow further. Eventually the expected all clear came through and we descended from our lofty perch. It isn’t often you survive a tsunami evacuation so we treated ourselves to a beer to celebrate both our own, and the rest of New Zealand’s fortunate outcome.
School House Bay
It had been over two hours since we stopped so, perhaps inevitably, starting walking again was a bit of a struggle. We had about 8km to go and it was 3.30pm, we are usually done by now and our bodies responded accordingly. We struggled slowly up to Tawa Saddle and its view above where Queen Charlotte Sound meets the Cook Straight. We had headphones in but were not tricking our minds into anything resembling a second wind. The tempo increased a little after we began our descent into School House Bay but Bill’s shoulders and Sarah’s legs were not happy. Finally we reached our final camping spot on the trail at School House Bay and seek to erect the tent in the efficient and well practiced manner we have developed over 5 months. Silently the ritual begins; Sarah takes out the inner from the bag as Bill unfolds the single pole, we connect each end of the pole to the corners of the inner and work our way up clipping as we go to give the tent its shape. Bill hands Sarah two pegs and we secure our domed structure to the ground. Next the outer is swung over and we match green clips to green clips and black to black. Finally we meet at one side of the tent , pull the vestibule out and peg, then repeat on the other side. It is a process we have repeated so many times and has become a fluid dance if familiarity and efficiency.
The view from School House Bay
Our late finish meant dinner was the next task. We had just the one thing left in the food bag; a dehydrated fish pie. We boiled the stove, filled the bag, waited 10 minutes and we were good to go. Our last meal on trail was not a memorable one and we thanked ourselves for not relying on these through our journey like many do.
We hit the sack surrounded by a lively forest, full of birdsong, cicadas and the scurrying of Weka roaming around the tent. The noise of the flora played out atop a gentle rhythm of lapping waves from the bay below. Sleep came quickly, which was useful as we had a 6.30am start to give us enough time to complete the 6km to Ship Cove, and our finish tomorrow. Sleep however was halted abruptly by the sound of loud music accompanied by awful singing from a boat moored in the bay at about 10.30pm. The merriment had all the tell-tale signs of drunk singing humans; murmured bridges and lyrics followed by off key and confidently loud choruses (“mhmgtrhh mtnshgghts sht dyd kkffk SWEEET CAROLINE BAHM BAHM BAHM fjjdjd fkkd" etc.) We bristled with frustration that our last night of tranquillity could end up being ruined, but thankfully shortly after the cacophony begun, it trailed off and the sounds of nature reigned supreme once more.
We had readied ourselves that our last day on trail would be wet. It had been forecasted to be wet on Saturday 6th March for the last 10 days, and it was true to its word. Fortunately we found a gap in the precipitation to get the tent down and ourselves ready for the final walk. We set off shortly after 7.00am and headed uphill away from the bay below. It was damp, cloudy and, as day was not yet fully broken, dark as well. We covered the first 3km to a viewpoint rapidly, we were wet, but also hot, half asleep and, crucially, pre-tea. It wasn’t overwhelmingly pleasant but nothing would dampen the mood today.
We began to drop down towards Ship Cove. The path underfoot was primarily clay which waited in anticipation for a lazy foot placement or an overconfidence of speed so it could send us head over heels. We kept our footing and proceeded with caution. The rain abated somewhat and dawn became day as we gradually descended to sea level.
We rounded a corner and glimpsed a wooden shelter through the trees. We swung our heads towards the path and there it was; Ship Cove. We both placed two polls in one hand and walked hand in hand for the final 10 meters to the sign. We had made it, we had walked 3,009.1km in 153 days and finally, finally we had made it to the near mythical Ship Cove.
Finished ☺
Sign to prove it!
A feeling of incredible satisfaction washed over us as we continued to the shelter and took in the beautifully situated, and rapidly brightening, Cove. The water taxi arrived and took us across the choppy Queen Charlotte Sound back to Picton. We met our friends Mark and Tanya, who finished their own incredible Te Araroa journey just a week ago, and discussed all things TA. It was a great opportunity to debrief and digest the multitude of raw and powerful feelings we both felt at this point.
It will take some time for the enormity of our accomplishment to sink in. It will take perhaps even longer for us to realise how it has changed us, to see the indelible mark this incredible experience has had on us. For now, whilst we cross the Cook Strait sailing towards our nation’s capital, we would like to thank each and everyone one of you for your incredible and unwavering support throughout our journey. We have been truly humbled by the generosity and kindness you have offered us and can only hope you’ve enjoyed our story somewhere close to how much we’ve enjoying living it.
What’s next?
Into Wellington today, then back to Auckland for 3 weeks tomorrow. We will head to Nelson to begin our next adventure after Easter at the end of March.
There will be one more blog entry before we finish. We will try and talk about some of our highlights, lowlights and learnings and will try to eloquently break down the real essence of our experience with the benefit of some time to reflect.