Tātou Araroa – Episode 5: History and Beauty; Bay of Islands and the Tutukaka Coast.
Progress – 340.2km or 11.39%
Kerikeri to Ngunguru – down the country but up the Haywood family tree
We’re here just outside the quaint coastal town of Ngunguru. (think kangaroo – nung-aroo) staying Mia’s (a friend and Trial Angel from our time in Kerikeri) parents house.
Since we left Kerikeri we’ve continued to experience the broad range of physical and human geography we’ve come to love from Te Araroa. As we journeyed south from Kerikeri, the early morning sunlight shone through in waves between the beautiful pines of the Waitangi Forest, laying as our main obstacle between Kerikeri and our destination for the day, Paihia. The soft pine needles acting as a elixir for our weary feet.
The peak of Mount Bledisloe on the forest fringe served both as a pleasant lunch spot and as our first view into the Bay of Islands. As we descended into the township of Waitangi we are reminded of the integral role the events leading to February 6th 1840 play in New Zealand’s past and present. The signing of Te Tiriti O Waitangi / The Treaty of Waitangi signifies the commonly accepted genesis of modern Aoetearoa New Zealand. Interpretation of this agreement has led to much discussion, legal recourse and contributed to a civil war in the years following its ratification.
Passing through Waitangi we headed into Paihia for beer, “hot chips”, fish and more “hot chips” and an early night.
A short coastal jaunt the following day to the Opua – Okiato ferry and it’s $1 passenger fare followed. A further 8km on a boardwalk amongst the mangroves and we arrived at Waikere and a reunification of the Famous Five.
The next day included our favorite type of walk; a stream walk! Amongst the Parataniwha and sprawling groves of Mamuka we paddled our way through the Papakauri Stream. The 17km of road walking following this served little function other than to dry our boots and bring us to the best Trial Angels we’ve experienced so far. Alex, an artist, and Dave in Helena Bay treated us to beer, a cheese platter, chicken casserole AND hot showers. After the long hot road walk we thought perhaps we had passed into the afterlife and were indeed in heaven.
Yesterday was another huge day and introduced a new foe to us. This foe goes by the name “undulating”. 400m drops to cross a stream the size of your foot followed by a 300m climb to an unnamed peak with no view. It tested us both physically and mentally but ultimately ended in a two-fold victory. Completion AND a jogged last Km to get fish and chips in at the Whananaki Takeaway two minutes before closing.
Today included our favorite stretch of walking thus far. The 7km from the campsite across “The Longest Footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere” and along the Whananaki Coastal Track was a delightful mix of rolling hillside and stunning bays. The joy was curtailed soon after by a detour due to a slip leading to an arduous 20km road and gravel walk over the hill into Ngungaru.
The nitty-gritty
Te Araroa is amazing, it is a journey like no other and offers the hiker a plethora of incredible trails, views and experiences. She can also, at times, be charitably described as “absolutely maddening” and, whilst walking on narrow shouldered fast country roads, “miserable”. Te Araroa is young and developing all the time. Her guardians always working to link sections of bush and farmlands together but for now include something in excess of 500km of road walking.
Slackpacking
For two blissful days last week, we were treated to walking without our packs. Mia’s kind offer of transporting our bags from Kerikeri to Paihia was snapped up enthusiastically. The price of “a latte and a scone” proved an offer we couldn’t refuse from a kayak guide in Paihia to bring our bags over to Waikare.
A day without bags is one filled with joy and song as you skip the merry trails high on life and space between vertebrae.
Trail Angels
As mentioned before, the huge kindness of the entire Haywood whanau for everything!
Alex and Dave in Helena Bay for their incredible hospitality and for the opportunity to play with their two Labradors, Kowhai and Toto (named after the band, not the Wizard of Oz dog)
For Sheryl at Waikere – for the caravan and the chance to play with Digger their dog, exposure to an angry bull on her land was an experience too!
The Why
Finally, as mentioned before, we’re walking this walk to raise awareness and money for Mental Health Foundation – we would really appreciate and welcome anything you can spare. You can donate by clicking HERE.
A huge thank you for those who’ve already donated :)
What’s next?
A couple of tricky estuary crossings tomorrow as we head south towards Patua and beyond. A westerly dog leg around Whangarei Heads follows on Tuesday then a sprint to Waipu and the famous Pizza Barn awaits on Wednesday.
Note: written Sunday 18th October, published Tuesday 20th October
Catch Episode 6 HERE